Excursion at Rethymno
Best-preserved towns of the Renaissance
The old town of Rethymno is one of the best-preserved towns of the Renaissance. Lying in the heart of modern Rethymno, it combines the oriental features of the Turkish period with Renaissance-style Venetian architecture. After the Venetian conquest of Crete (1204), the town of Rethymno was built according to the rules of Venetian architecture. The original craftsmen were Venetians, but these later were replaced by Cretan murari, Venetian-trained master builders. The layout of Rethymno is directly linked to the sea, with the main Venetian street, the Ruga Maistra (today’s coastal Venizelou Avenue) running parallel to the sea. The opposite is true of Heraklio and Chania, where the town is closed to the sea for reasons of defence and the main street is at right angles to the coast.
The private mansions of Rethymno are not as impressive as those of Venice, mainly for financial reasons. Furthermore, the strong traditions of Cretan architecture could not be overcome, and Renaissance influences are most apparent in building facades.
Finally, as opposed to Heraklion and Chania, Greek features are predominant in Rethymno because most nobles were Greeks, known as “Archondoromeoi” (noble “Romans”, that is, inhabitants of the Eastern Roman Empire).
Many buildings with gothic features were lost in the destruction of the town by Uluç Ali in 1571, while Rethymno was rebuilt almost in its entirety in the third quarter of the 16th century.
TURKISH ARCHITECTURE
Many fine examples of Turkish architecture are preserved scattered around the narrow streets of the old town.
Their main feature is the heavy use of wood. Building styles changed during the years of the Turkish occupation (1646-1898) and the dressed stone of the Venetians was replaced by a wooden frame filled with rubble and mud (bagdati). The walls were then thickly plastered. The upper storey almost always projects out over the street (sahnisi) and is faced with wood, often with kafasoto latticework.
In Rethymno, the Turks made full use of the existing Venetian public and private buildings, which they modified according to their needs.
Today the old town of Rethymno is a living museum of monuments of past centuries. Despite the damage sustained in the Second World War, many Venetian and Turkish monuments still stand, especially as the town has not been struck by major earthquakes.
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